Thoughts on Cork, Ireland

Dubbed “the real capital”, Cork is a small city full of character. Historically known as “The Rebel City”, Cork’s reputation for defiance and individuality blossomed in the time of clans and chieftains, but lives on today in the form of its lively arts scene, quirky local businesses, and burgeoning startup district. Also home to the world’s second-largest natural harbour, this city traditionally provided a safe haven for sailors, providing a place of welcome and acceptance for the weary traveler.

The hospitable, open-minded nature of the locals lends itself to merrymaking. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself dancing on the tables ‘till dawn at one of the city’s many traditional “séisiún” (session) hideaways. Buskers are a dime-a-dozen, with one band providing a unique opportunity to hear contemporary hits played with Irish traditional instruments. Fresh energy flows anew every October, when the city hosts Ireland’s only Jazz Festival. With such high spirits abound it is no surprise that Cork is home to over 600 bars. Every nook or cranny sports a classic, snug “old man” pub, with the city’s 12 microbreweries providing a whopping 200 native varieties of craft beer. Stout is alive and well – but locals strongly prefer locally-brewed Beamish rather than Guinness.

Wetting your whistle is one thing, but Cork’s foodie scene is heralded as the best in Ireland. There is a certain charm in wandering these winding streets, stumbling upon an undiscovered gastronomic gem. The stomping ground of chefs too obscure for Dublin’s more classical scene, Cork boasts a crop of vegetarian, traditional fusion, and ethnic restaurants. If it’s a bazaar you seek, look no further than The English Market – a traditional trading point for local food, fish, and crafts. Call in to the nearby Butter Museum to hear the history, and bountiful folklore, associated with agriculture in the region.

Indeed, lovers of the old world will revel in a visit to Shandon Town and its bustling alehouses.  University College Cork has an impressive collection of Victorian buildings, as well as a unique collection of Ogham stones; runes etched with poetry written in the old Irish, pre-Latin script. The surrounding green grounds feature a medley of statues; pagan, classical and avant-garde. Be warned: legend has it that ghosts lurk abound – and for more spooks, visit the City Gaol, a colonial penitentiary turned civil war political prison, where countless peasants and indeed historical figures met untimely ends. If something jolly and vintage is more your style, drop by Mother Jones Flea Market ro Vintage Hall, both treasure troves for antiques, statement fashion pieces, and one-of-a-kind decor.

As you leave the city, make sure to see the world-famous “Blarney Castle”. According to local lore, anyone who kisses its ancient, magical stone will be bestowed with “The Gift of the Gab” – the ability to spin stories which charm and delight all those around you. No doubt, this quirky humour and free spirited outlook makes Cork a must-see destination on any Ireland Itinerary.